Formalwear FAQ's

Glossary of Formalwear Terms

ASCOT (as-kot)
A cravat with wide square ends; secured with an ornamental pin.

BESOM (be'-zum)
Narrow welted edging on coat body above pocket lip.

BLACK TIE INVITED
An event where a tuxedo or dinner jacket is encouraged but not required. If not a tuxedo, proper dressy attire (coat and tie) is necessary.

BLACK TIE OPTIONAL
An event where a tuxedo or dinner jacket may be worn but is not required. Proper dressy attire (suit, not a sport coat) is necessary.

BLACK TIE REQUIRED
An event where a tuxedo or dinner jacket is required. Don't even think about attending without one.

BOUTONNIERE (boo'-t?-nîr')
A flower or small bunch of flowers worn in a button hole. From Old French, buttonhole.

BOW TIE
Standard formal attire. Wide array of fabrics, colors and patterns. Black is always the preferred choice. Available usually pre-tied with a neck band to wear on a wing-collar or dress-collar shirt. Be bold, buy a black silk tie that you tie yourself. Very James Bond-like.

BRACES
The English term for suspenders. Usually of the button-on variety but also available as clip-on.

CANE
A straight black cane with white tips on both ends. Traditionally carried when wearing "white tie and tails". Usually accompanied by white gloves and a top hat.

CONTINENTAL VEST (aka waistcoat)
A backless vest designed to accommodate varied sizes of men. Available in a wide array of colors and fabric patterns. With the exception of boys sizes and extra-large sizes, vest comes as a 'one size fits all.' Includes adjustable strapping at the back of the neck for length and across the lower back to adjust the waist.

CUFF LINKS
Traditional formal attire. Usually available in gold, silver, silver plate, gold plate, and nickel-plate. Normally coordinated with four shirt studs worn on the front placket of the shirt in lieu of buttons.

CUMMERBUND (kum'-er-bund')
A broad sash, especially one that is pleated lengthwise and worn as an article of formal dress, as with a dinner jacket. Worn so the open side of the pleats are up (as if to hold opera tickets).

CUTAWAY (aka morning coat)
Classic daytime formal attire that used to be worn only for events prior to noon. Now acceptable up until mid-afternoon, but never for evenings. A charcoal grey or black coat with a long coachman back. The front of the coat "cuts away from the button down. Worn with a dove grey or black vest, striped or pin-dot ascot, wing collar shirt, and either striped or nailhead pants. Black formal shoes or dress calfskin shoes are a must.

DINNER JACKET
Traditionally, for summer, white, off-white or Sahara tan. Panama weave, single or double-breasted, self-faced shawl collar dinner jacket with black formal trousers. Worn with a white pleated wing-collar or spread-collar shirt.

DROP
The number of inches smaller the trouser waist of a suit is than the coat. A size 40 regular suit, for example, usually has a 6 inch trouser drop... a 34 inch waist.

FEDORA (fí-dôr'-uh)
A soft felt hat with a fairly low crown creased lengthwise and a brim that can be turned up or down.

FOUR-IN-HAND
The simplest of neckwear knots to tie. Name comes from a coach being drawn by four horse in two teams, driven in tandem by a single person. Young blades took up the sport, organized into clubs and adopted the professional coachman's tie as a mark of distinction. A four-in-hand is a small knot for wear with a narrow-spread collar.

FULLBACK VEST (aka waistcoat)
Similar to a continental vest but with a full satin back like on a traditional three-piece suit. Usually found with an adjustable strap across the lower back to cinch-in any excess fabric. Available in as many as eight sizes.

GORGE
The seam on a coat where collar meets lapel.

HACKING POCKET
A slanted flap pocket on a coat. Rarely found in formal wear.

HANDKERCHIEF/POCKET SQUARE
A silk or satin fabric square folded in a variety of manners and placed in the outer breast pocket of a tuxedo. Does not have to match the vest but should complement the colors in the tie and or vest.

HERRINGBONE
Classic zigzag effect resembling the backbone of a herring. Achieved by altering the direction of a twill.

IRIDESCENT
Contrasting warp and filling yarns giving a two-color effect.

JACQUARD
An intricate, variegated, self-pattern weave with clear finish. Named for the Frenchman who invented the loom in the early 19th century.

LOW RISE
The difference between inseam and outseam of trousers. Several inches shorter than normal rise depending on the designer. Favored by the young and slim.

NORMAL RISE
The difference between the inseam and outseam of trousers. (Normal rise for size 32 regular, for example, is 10 7/8" (10 1/8" for 32 short and 11 1/8" for 32 long. Rise increases 1/8" for each increase in waist size.)

NOTCHED (NOTCH) LAPEL
Type of lapel on which the top line slants down in line with the collar seam.

PAISLEY
A fabric woven or printed with colorful curved (amoeba-like) abstract figures.

PEAKED (PEAK) LAPEL
Type of lapel on which the top line slants up from the horizontal.

PIMA
Fine grade, long bred staple crossbreed of Sea Island and Egyptian cotton, developed in Pima County, Arizona.

PLY
One of the strands in a yarn, 2-ply would indicate that two strands have been twisted together to make one yarn.

PUMP
Type of low-cut, slip-on shoe for formal evening wear. Does not have laces or straps. Usually has an ornamental grosgrain ribbon bow in front. Made of patent leather or dull calf.

SHAWL COLLAR
An unnotched lapel with no gorge.

TARTAN
A plaid textile design of stripes of varying width and color against a solid ground, patterned to designate a clan.

TWILL
A textile weave in which filling yarns pass over one and under two or more warp yarns producing a diagonal rib.

TWIST
A yarn formed by twisting two or more strands together. Different colored yarns are often used for unusual color effect.

UNDERBASTING
The temporary sewing together of two pieces of fabric to assure perfect pattern matches. Threads are removed at final pressing.

UNDERPRESSING
Pressing on the reverse side of the fabric to mold it so it will retain its shape.

VENT
Slit at center or sides on the bottom of the back of a jacket or coat.

WELT
A raised double edge, strip, insert, or seam for ornament or reinforcement.

WINDSOR
The largest of the three neckwear knot styles. Worn with wide spread collar shirts. (Half-windsor is worn with medium spread collar).

WORSTED
A smooth, compact yarn form long wool fibers, used for smooth, firm, compact fabrics.

About Cufflinks and Studs

What You Need To Know About Cufflinks And Studs

Cufflinks and Studs are generally worn with most formal shirts and may also be referred to as 'Formal Jewelry.' We receive a number of questions asking how to insert the Cufflinks and Studs into the shirt. The information below should be just what you need to properly wear your jewelry.

When you rent your Jim's tuxedo, it will come with a small bag containing two Cufflinks and four Studs. The color of your jewelry may vary depending on your choice of tux style.

STEP 1 | With your shirt on, pinch the cuffs of your sleeve together in the manner shown.

You may be tempted to fold the edges of the cuffs together to form a cylinder shape, but it's best to wear your cuffs in the manner shown. This way is more appropriate and stylish.

STEP 2 | Insert the Cufflink through both holes in the shirt's cuff. The colored part of the Cufflink (usually black or ivory), should face the outside when your arm is at your side.

STEP 3 | On the backside of the cuff, flip the bar to hold the Cufflink in place.

Locate your set of Studs for the next step...

STEP 4 | Most tuxedo shirts will have specially designed Stud holes in place of button holes.

Each Stud should first be fed through the back Stud hole on the formal shirt. Ignore the pearl button that may be present on your shirt. It is not needed if studs are worn.

STEP 5 | Then, with the Stud acting as a button, feed it through the front hole in the formal shirt. This will secure the shirt front closed.

Smooth out any wrinkles your fingers may have made and move on to the next three Studs. After that, you're ready for your formal event!

Please Note:

If you're wearing a bow tie with your tuxedo, you will definitely need to wear Studs in the front of your formal shirt.

If you are wearing a windsor tie with your tuxedo, you will only receive Cufflinks with your Jim's Tuxedo. No Studs are necessary as they would be covered by the tie.

If you need additional assistance, don't hesitate to call your local retailer where you rented your tuxedo - or - see the sidebar for methods to contact us for help!

Important Finishing & Fitting Tips

You can count on your Jim's Formal Wear Retailer to ensure that your tuxedo fits properly before you leave their store. However, here are the answers to some fitting questions we commonly receive:

TUXEDO COATS

Button Your Jacket!
During a fitting, make sure you button your jacket. If it produces an hour glass shape, the coat may be too tight. If it looks 'boxy,' it may be too big. No matter whether you are slim, stocky or muscular, a properly fitted jacket will taper slightly at the waist.

Pay Attention To Your Shoulders...
The shoulder padding of your tuxedo jacket should not extend beyond the tip of your shoulders and hang down your arm. If so, your jacket is too big! Conversely, if a significant crease or roll appears below the jacket collar in back, your jacket may be too small.

How Many Buttons Should be Buttoned?
You should never button all of the buttons on your tuxedo coat! As a general rule, you should leave the bottom button undone. This rule applies if you are wearing a two, three, four or five button coat. If you're wearing a one button style, however, you should button the one button!

FORMAL TROUSERS

The Pant Leg Should Break Where?
The perfect length pant leg breaks slightly on top of the shoe and angles a bit downward.

To properly judge the fit of your trousers, you should wear your formal shoes when trying on your pants.

Your Trousers' Waistband...
Our formal trousers come with an adjustable waist band of three inches. Fear not, your pants won't be too tight! With the adjustable waist band, you'll have some flexibility and a comfortable fit.

On a properly fitted pair of formal trousers, the waistband should be even with the gentleman's navel.

FORMAL SHIRTS

How Much Shirt Sleeve Should We See Under the Coat?
Shirt sleeves should extend one quarter to one half inch beyond the jacket's sleeves.

A Properly Fitted Collar...
A formal shirt collar should wrap smoothly around the neck. If you can slip more than one finger between the collar and your neck, your shirt is too big. If no fingers fit, your shirt is too small.

Do The Wing Tips Go On Top or Behind?
The tips or flaps on a wing collar shirt should sit BEHIND your bow tie; not on top of it.

How Do Cufflinks & Studs Get Inserted Into The Shirt?
We have a web page showing you how to handle Cufflinks and Studs. View Page.

ACCESSORIES

Rules for the Bottom Button of a Fullback Vest....
If your vest is a six button fullback vest, it is OK to unbutton the bottom button. This also keeps the vest from bunching when you sit down.

If the vest has five or less buttons, all buttons should remain buttoned.

Cover Up Your Waistband with your Cummerbund or Vest...
Both cummerbunds and vests should cover the top waistband of your formal trousers when worn properly.

Fullback Vests Just Look Better...
If you think you may remove your tuxedo jacket during the reception, opt for a fullback vest. It's a much cleaner, well-dressed look when your coat is off.

When To Wear Suspenders...
You may wear suspenders with a cummerbund. However, you should not wear suspenders with a vest unless you desperately need them to help keep your pants up!

The Pleats Face Up On Your Cummerbund...
Cummerbunds are worn with the pleats facing up. It's said they are worn that way to hold your opera tickets and catch any crumbs that fall in your lap!

How Do I Fold A Pocket Square?
We have a web page showing you three methods to fold a pocket square. View Page.

Flowers Go On The Left Lapel...
A boutonniere should be worn on the left lapel and tilted slightly outward.

FORMAL SHOES

What Color Shoes Do I Need?
Allow your pants color to dictate your shoe color...

Black formal shoes and socks should be worn when your tuxedo pants are black. When your tuxedo pants are white, choose white formal shoes and socks. Likewise for ivory and brown...

Formal Shoes Are The Best Choice... Always!
Any old pair of black leather shoes are not appropriate with a tuxedo. Black patent formal shoes are the best way to go! Be sure to wear the correct color socks, too. Black socks with a black tuxedo, white socks with a white tuxedo, ivory socks with an ivory tuxedo and brown socks with a brown tuxedo. We have all the colors of socks you may need, so please ask your Jim's Retailer to order!

Should I Rent or Purchase a Tuxedo?

It's important for you, as a consumer, to make informed purchasing decisions. If you are on the fence about renting or purchasing a tuxedo, the brief article below will give you some important points to consider before you make your decision.

In recent years, you may have noticed that many 'big box' and chain retailers are carrying inexpensive retail tuxedos. In many of these stores, you can purchase a coat and pant for $99. These garments have been termed 'disposable tuxedos' by many because of the poor quality in which they were constructed. Before you consider purchasing one of these tuxedos, we ask that you become aware of the following points:
»	The advertised $99 price only includes a coat and pant. Adding a shirt will cost an additional $20-$30, a vest and tie will cost an additional $30-$50, and a pair of shoes will cost about $50. The total cost for a complete tuxedo ensemble can be over $200.
»	Typically, retail tuxedo accessories (ties and vests) are only worn once, to match a dress: bridesmaid, prom or other. Assuming your date will be wearing a different colored dress to each event, you will likely have to purchase a $30-$50 vest and tie set every time you attend a function.
»	Prior to purchasing a tuxedo, you should take into consideration the cost of maintaining the garment. A typical dry cleaner will charge over $20 to clean the entire tuxedo (coat, pant, shirt, tie and vest). Don't forget that there is an ongoing expense every time you wear your own tuxedo.
»	If you wear a tuxedo rental to each of your functions, you have the flexibility to change both tuxedo and accessory style for each event. Simply choose different styles when you place your order!
»	Depending on how often your weight fluctuates, there is the possibility that your tuxedo will not fit the next time you need to wear it.
»	You should also consider the useable life of a tuxedo that can be purchased for only $99. In a recent experiment, JFW purchased a $99 retail tuxedo from an undisclosed retailer. After five dry cleanings, the tuxedo experienced some de-lamination in the frontal area (this is when the fabric on the outside becomes separated from the fusing on the inside of the jacket.) This de-lamination causes a "puckering" effect on the outside of the tuxedo. While the garment can still be worn, it is a matter of personal preference as to whether or not it is acceptable for continued use. It is also important to remember that this was simply dry cleaning the garment, and didn’t take into consideration the abuse that occurs when the tuxedo is actually worn.
»	It is important to remember that the times in your life when you'll be wearing a tuxedo are some of the most special times in your life! These are the times that you should look and feel your very best. The quality of the rental tuxedo you'll receive from Antoine's Formalwear is far superior to the quality of any tuxedo you can purchase for $99. There's no question - you will look and feel better in a higher quality tuxedo.

If you are certain that purchasing a tuxedo is the best thing for you, keep in mind that you can purchase tuxedos from Antoine's. In addition to many of our rental garments being available for sale, new tuxedos are available for purchase as well. Our tuxedos will last much longer than some of the cheaper alternatives in the marketplace, and you will look and feel much better when you're wearing it!
See our Options to Purchase A Tuxedo in our Product catalog.

Are Tuxedos Available in Other Colors?

Let us answer that question by saying every tuxedo available in our rental line is shown here on our website. If a tuxedo is available in multiple colors, all of the shades will have their own image shown here on our website.

If you aren't able to find a specific tuxedo color on our site, it may still exist or be available in the marketplace. We have the contacts and avenues to help you find what you want, so don't hesitate to contact us with your needs,

Please visit our 'Buy A Tux' page. You'll have some other purchasing options and you can inquire about your desired tuxedo with Tom Wessel, our Internet Formalwear Consultant. He'll be able to assist you in your search!

Size Scale Information

This page is helpful if you are looking to see which styles are available in a particular size. Size availability for lager gentlemen and little boys are two of our more frequently asked questions.

Available Sizes | Scale A

MEN'S
Regular	34-74
Portly Regular	40-60
Short	34-60
Long	36-74
Extra Long	38-66
BOYS'
Regular	2-20
Husky	8-20
Coats Available in this scale:
820 \| 880 \| 403

Available Sizes | Scale A2

MEN'S
Regular	34-74
Short	34-60
Long	36-74
Extra Long	38-66
BOYS'
Regular	3-18
Husky	8-16
Coats Available in this scale:
812 \|813

Available Sizes | Scale B

MEN'S
Regular	34-66
Short	34-50
Long	36-66
Extra Long	38-50
BOYS'
Regular	3-18
Husky	8-18
Coats Available in this scale:
944

Available Sizes | Scale B2

MEN'S
Regular	34-66
Short	34-56
Long	36-66
Extra Long	38-56
BOYS'
Regular	3-18
Husky	8-16
Coats Available in this scale:
912 \| 932 \| 922 \| 913 \| 972 894 \| 792 \| 772 \| 282 \| 982 302 \| 842 \| 742 \| 862 \| 202 713 \| 707 \| 909 \| 743 \| 914 902 \| 729 \| 929

Available Sizes | Scale C

MEN'S
Regular	34-60
Short	34-50
Long	36-60
Extra Long	38-50
BOYS'
Regular	3-18
Husky	8-16
Coats Available in this scale:
643 \| 260 \| 993 \| 995 \| 720 620 \| 700 \| 886

Available Sizes | Scale D

MEN'S
Regular	34-60
Short	34-50
Long	36-60
Extra Long	38-50
BOYS'
Regular	3-18
Husky	N/A
Coats Available in this scale:
526 \| 572 \| 562 \| 582 \| 588

Tuxedos For Little Boys

Yes, We Have Tuxedos For Your Littlest Gentleman...

We carry Tuxedos & Formal Accessories for little boys!

Every one of our Tuxedo Styles starts at boys' size 3. A few styles even start as small as a boys'
size 2.

If you're thinking of including a little guy in your wedding party as a Ring Bearer or Mini-Groom, we'll be able to offer a style in his size.

Be sure to count on your Jim's Formal Wear Retailer for advice in fitting your little guy.

Can I Measure Myself for a Tuxedo Rental?

Don't Measure Yourself For A Tuxedo!

It may seem really simple to measure yourself for a tuxedo, but it's important to remember that it's next to impossible to acquire accurate measurements!

An inaccurate measurement that may be off by only an inch may get you a tuxedo coat that's one or two sizes too big or small.

It's best to count on your Authorized Jim's Formal Wear Retailer to measure you for your formal affair. They have been professionally trained in proper measuring techniques.

Out-of-Town Measurements

Submit Your Measurements Here Acquiring Out-of-Town Measurements is Easy... Download and use our Out-of-Town Groomsman Measurement Form!
Scenario: The groom's brother (the best man) lives in Los Angeles. You live in Atlanta and that's where the wedding will be held. His flight arrives the day before the wedding. How do you acquire his measurements to order his tux if he's a whole country away?
Don't worry! You can solve this problem by downloading the Out-of-Town Groomsmen Measurement Form available here! Use the form as a tool to collect the tux measurements from any gentleman who is too far from your chosen Jim's Retailer to be measured.
Follow these steps to collect your tux measurements:
STEP ONE:

Become familiar with the form and the information required. Gathering measurements is simple, but very critical for a proper fit!
STEP TWO:
If your groomsmen have access to the Internet, they can visit this webpage and print the form themselves. To email a link, click here.
You may also choose to print a form for each of your groomsmen and drop the forms in the mail.
STEP THREE:
Have your gentlemen visit an Authorized Jim's Formal Wear Retailer to be measured. If a Jim's Retailer is not close, another tuxedo shop is a good alternative.
STEP FOUR:
Once your gentlemen have their measurements taken and the form completed, have them send the form to you!
Collect the forms and deliver or send them to your chosen Jim's Retailer at least four to six weeks prior to the date of your affair. Your Jim's Retailer will pick up the tux ordering process from here!
STEP FIVE:
Once the gentlemen get into town the week of the wedding, have them visit your local Jim's Retailer to pick up their tuxes!
They should all try on their ensembles to make sure they properly fit before leaving the store. Your Jim's Retailer will be able to handle any last minute alterations at that time.

TIPS:
Encourage your groomsmen NOT to measure themselves, have a relative or friend measure them, or guess at their measurements!
Current measurements are the most accurate! Even though a gentleman may have been measured for a tuxedo recently, measurements can change. It's best to be measured again...
Have your gentlemen go to an Authorized Jim's Formal Wear Retailer to have measurements taken. If a Jim's Retailer is not close, a professional tailor or menswear shop is a good alternative. Some retailers may charge a small fee for this service.

A Timeline for Ordering Wedding Tuxedos

3 to 6 months before the wedding...
»	Decide which Jim's Formal Wear Retailer you want to work with. Visit our interactive Store Locator to find the Jim's Retailer closest to you. You'll have access to their store address and phone number. Some of our Retailers have websites, too - you'll see their links.
»	Visit their store to register your wedding and begin the tuxedo selection process.
»	You may also view styles on this website, order a brochure, or use our Buld-A-Tux™ feature to mix and match tuxedos & accessories before or after you visit a store.
2 to 5 months before the wedding...
»	Select your Tuxedo and Accessory Styles with your Jim's Retailer and place your order.
»	Contact any Out-of-Town Groomsmen you may have, and arrange for them to acquire their measurements locally. \| Learn more
»	Consider sending an email with a link to our website showing your groomsmen the style they'll be wearing.
6 to 8 weeks before the wedding...
»	Out-of-Town Groomsmen measurements should be collected and given to your Jim's Retailer.
»	The Groom and any local Groomsmen should visit your Jim's Retailer to be measured and fitted for their tuxedos.
1 week before the wedding...
»	The groom and groomsmen should visit your Jim's Retailer 2-3 days before the wedding for final fittings, adjustments and to pick up the tuxedos. Make sure that each person tries on his tuxedo before leaving the store.
The first business day after the wedding...
»	Return the tuxedos to your Jim's Retailer. Late returns may be subject to a fee! Consider having the Best Man be responsible for this duty.

About Tuxedo Rental Pricing

If you've shopped around you'll notice very few Tuxedo Rental companies publish their rental prices online. At Antoine's we feel confident that posting our prices helps the consumer learn what to expect from us, and build a trustful relationship. We have nothing to hide, so why wouldn't we publish our prices?

How to Rent a Tuxedo

"How Do I Go About Renting A Tux?"

That's a question we hear quite often. It's a very simple process really, but one that most people may not be familiar with. Actually, you can complete most of the process right here on our website in terms of making a tuxedo selection.

Here's a simple list of points showing you how to rent a Jim's tuxedo:

1\|	CHOOSE YOUR TUXEDO - you may accomplish this by browsing through the 'TUXEDOS' section of our site. Every style we offer in our rental program can be viewed here.
2\|	CHOOSE YOUR ACCESSORIES - fullback vests, ties, shoes, shirts... everything can be found online. Just click the 'ACCESSORIES' tab to begin.
3\|	Visit our Store - You'll have access to our store address and phone number.
4\|	Deposit - You may be asked to place a small downpayment on your rental. Before you leave, you will have confirmed availability of your tux and accessory styles for your wear date.
5\|	PICK UP YOUR TUX - when you return to the retailer's store, you'll have the opportunity to try your tuxedo on for a final fitting. We will answer any questions you may have.
6\|	ENJOY YOUR EVENT - we'll leave this part up to you!
7\|	RETURN YOUR TUX - Antoine's will expect your tuxedo returned to their store the next business day after your event. Inquire about their return policies; late fees may apply!

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Antoine's Formal Wear and Tailorshop

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